Valve Cover Removal

For all Carb and Injection engines, standard or modified plus non-standard engine transplants. Heads; Blocks; Cooling (including heater issues related to the cooling system); Mounts etc

Moderator:Scirocco Register

Forum rules
Hints, tips and guides for repair and modification - the FAQ section on the main website is worth checking first for information relating to common faults and technical help. Useful posts and guides will be added to the FAQ
Joined:Sat Dec 02, 2017 6:16 pm
fill in the right answer:15
Valve Cover Removal

Post by WreckTangle » Fri Nov 20, 2020 2:31 pm

I am planning to replace my valve cover seal as it is leaking above number 4 cylinder. I have got a replacement cork gasket kit and some RTV to seal the corners where the separate plastic parts go.

It is obviously necessary to remove the front part of the airbox. I shall be doing this anyway to replace the carburettor. What is not obvious to me (and I can find no reference anywhere) is whether it is necessary to remove any of the timing belt cover. Mine has a plastic timing belt cover the back part of which appears to bolt down on top of the valve cover. Once the bolts are undone is there enough room to remove the valve cover with the timing cover still in situ? If not, does that part come out without needing to remove the timing belt?

I know this might seem a trivial question but I am reluctant to make a start on this job and find it gets rapidly more complicated. Thanks.

Joined:Fri Feb 24, 2017 12:18 am
fill in the right answer:15

Re: Valve Cover Removal

Post by GT_II » Fri Nov 20, 2020 6:48 pm

You're probably better off removing the upper part of the outer timing belt cover first - it should ease out upwards once you've undone the two clips. As you've spotted, the inner part of the timing belt cover is sandwiched between the valve cover nuts and the valve cover, so that will lift out easily once the outer belt cover upper part and nuts are removed. When you put the outer upper belt cover back at the end, make sure it engages correctly across its bottom edge with the lower part of the cover as well as the inner cover before securing the clips.

1992 VW Scirocco GT II 1.8 90PS Brilliant Black 30k
2011 VW Caddy Van C20 Startline 1.6 TDI 102PS 65k
2015 Skoda Yeti SE Outdoor 1.2 TSI DSG 105PS 35k
2013 Fiat 500 Pop 1.2 69PS 40k
2009 VW Fox 1.2 54PS 60k
2009 Smart Fortwo Passion 1.0 mhd 71PS 25k

Joined:Thu Apr 02, 2009 9:28 pm
fill in the right answer:10

Re: Valve Cover Removal

Post by mark1gls » Mon Nov 30, 2020 11:56 pm

I would not use any sealant as it should not be needed and if any bits fall off it ends up in your engine.
Best upgrade is the Mk3 Golf rubber gasket as it’s in 1 piece. ... SwKGRfY0C2

You need to change the studs to fit the rubber gasket as the original studs have a shoulder on them to seat the cork gasket, the rubber gasket has the shoulders fitted to it.

You need to make sure your rocker cover is flat and not distorted by someone over tightening the nuts as it will always leak.

Mk1 78 Scirocco GLS 1.6 FR, weekend toy.
Mk1 88 Golf GTi cabriolet 1.8 DX. Daily drive.
Membership No. 323

User avatar
james butler
Joined:Fri Apr 24, 2009 1:54 pm
fill in the right answer:10

Re: Valve Cover Removal

Post by james butler » Sun Dec 06, 2020 11:48 am

i would also check you don't have oil leaking from the underside of the airbox on that side, i had a perpetual leak from the rocker cover on that side and used to pool on the inlet manifold. turned out it was oil from the rocker breather pooling inside the airbox and leaking out of the airbox join onto the rocker cover.

I dont mind project cars but I HATE SANDING!!!

Joined:Sat Dec 02, 2017 6:16 pm
fill in the right answer:15

Re: Valve Cover Removal

Post by WreckTangle » Sat Dec 26, 2020 11:46 pm

Thank you for all the advice. I have successfully completed this repair now and it was fairly straightforward. I did it in conjunction with replacing a previous owner's Weber "upgrade" with my DIY-refurbished Pierburg.

What I hadn't realised was that the top rear part of the timing belt cover is very small. I had assumed it extended down behind the timing belt as on other cars I'm familair with. Of course, following GT_II's advice to remove the upper part of the outer timing belt cover first this part then lifts away when you come to unbolt the valve cover.

I used an original three-part cork gasket kit from Elring. It was a good fit. I used just the smallest bit of RTV at the four joints as suggested in another source that I read before tackling this job. I torqued the nuts to 7ft lbs in a diagonal pattern. No sign of the leak reocurring in the few runs I did before I laid the car up for the winter.

I suspect the problem was down to the nuts not having been properly torqued in the first place but then I first became aware of it after an oil change. I have read on another forum about some modern oils having a propensity for finding leaks. I used Quantum Synta 10W-40 which is presumably the right stuff.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

Joined:Sat Jul 14, 2018 11:51 pm
fill in the right answer:15

Re: Valve Cover Removal

Post by RussGLAuto » Mon Dec 28, 2020 11:41 am

Nice one!

I got rid of my webber too. Pierburg is far better once refurbished.
That said, I found out why it had been changed for a webber... rust in the fuel system. Recommend checking your filler neck and tank for corrosion.
I'm back to square one with a blocked carb full of tank rust.

Daily Driver - 2017 Volvo XC90 T8 Twin Engine - Polestar - Arctic White
Weekend Wagon - 51k 1982 Mk2 Scirocco 1.6 GL Auto - Diamond Silver
Other Half's Wagon - 2020 Renault Clio RS Line - White
Daughters Curb Scraper - 2016 Fiat 500 1.2 - White

Joined:Sat Dec 02, 2017 6:16 pm
fill in the right answer:15

Re: Valve Cover Removal

Post by WreckTangle » Mon Dec 28, 2020 5:12 pm

This has been a three year (on and off) project during which I’ve fitted a new filler neck and had the tank professionally cleaned. That was actually about the first thing that was done to try to fix frequent stalling and failure to restart, especially going up hills. I bought the car reasonably cheaply on account of it having had sixteen owners before me many of whom I suspect were unable to get to the bottom of this fault.

It was always my intention to restore the car to original stock condition but the fuel system has proven to be fun!

When the stalling issue continued despite clean fuel I then implemented the restricted return pipe fix. This seemed to have been successful but there was still occasional hesitation. The car worked fine for occasional commuting during the first Coronavirus lockdown but then in the summer, on a slightly longer trip, the dreaded stuttering returned. It went back to normal upon refilling the tank so I followed a bit of a wild goose chase thinking the fuel sender (a rather unobtainable part) might be at fault.

The lack of a social life this year gave me time to restore the Pierburg. I stripped it down completely, cleaned it in an ultrasonic bath and tested all the component parts. I rebuilt it using a new gasket kit and a new throttle body heater. While fitting the Pierburg I spotted that the carb mounting gasket was split. It was quite a difficult split to spot so I suspect that was at least in part the reason for continued running problems.

Now with the refurbished Pierburg on a brand new gasket installed to spec (with the welding tip removed from the fuel return) the car runs beautifully and seems much more refined than with the Weber.

I must get around to doing a proper write-up of the project one day.

I think the takeaway from this for anyone grappling with a Weber stalling out is that it is likely to be one of the well known problems and in fact (as in my case) could be all of them!